KEY POINTS TO SUCCESSFUL SHEARING

System and Layout:

Irrespective of the number to be shorn, have a system - design whatever you like, but make sure it works! The layout suggested in fig 1 is a good model for any size of flock, and can be expanded to suit numbers. Sheep are great at exploiting weaknesses - they can spot a weakness in your carefully planned layout in seconds! Create a strong "holding" pen for the total to be sheared - use "heavy" hurdles, which don't go "walkabout" with the sheep! Have a good baseboard, flat and level to work off and have all you tool accessible! From that holding pen create a second small pen to hold say 4/6 sheep at a time (this is the "feed" pen) Have a "self closing" door/gate so that when you take out your sheep to shear you don't have to close it after you. (use one of those elastic luggage straps) Shearing TIP! Get the mob in the night before and close pen them - this helps the natural oils to rise and makes for a better shear in the morning.

Try not to enter into a "waltz" round the floor with each sheep you catch hold of - you will be "spent" by the third one! Select the sheep required, using your right hand, lean over it and take hold of the jaw, raising it upward and in the same action twist the head and pull backwards - pushing down. If you have got it right - the sheep is now sitting on its backside and ready to drag to the shearing board! If it isn't - try again - you didn't get it right!

An old bit of carpet will sometimes make it more comfortable for the upended sheep to sit on when in the shearing position, especially if they are thin. It helps greatly if you can learn the "Bowen" system of shearing movements. Trying to shear sheep standing upright - is "naff" (very un-professional!) Get cables tied up and out of the way. Shearing is made easier with an assistant. They can feed the holding pen and keep the feed pen full plus bag the wool. Always have your can of oil handy and remember to use it! REGULARILY!!!

KEY FACTORS TO SUCCESSFUL SHEARING
Get total control of the sheep:
Position the sheep between your legs - become part of it! If it wriggles bend your knees and grip harder
Positive clipping:
Know in your mind's eye exactly the direction you are going. Don't poke about! Be positive with each "blow" (shears clipping stroke term)
Wrist action:
Be relaxed, flexible and supple, keep the comb flat to the skin - ALWAYS! If the sheep is thin, stretch the shin when shearing over the bony areas.
Return action:
Swift, positive and no further back than to start the next blow, wasted inches is wasted effort!
Left hand.
Use it to confidently prepare the way for the shearing handpiece
Rhythm and timing:
Essential it makes for a successful operation. Don't however rush!

STEP 1. (fig 2)
Upend the sheep and sit it between your knees. Make you first stroke straight down the right-hand side of the brisket and follow on out and down over the belly. Repeat second stroke likewise but once in the belly area swing across to the left hand side. Strokes 3/4/5 across the belly. Some briskets can be "hell" to enter, so keep the blades tight and flat to the skin.

Often stretching the belly skin make the penetration of the clipping head easier as the blades enter the wool. Clip in around the annul area and nip of the top wool of the tail

N.B. Note/locate position of penis and teats. (see red arrows) Your sheep are usually keen to keep these in tact!

Tip! If the" victim" struggles dip and bent your knees.

STEPS 2 & 3 (fig 3 & 4)
Cleaning the legs following the inside leg line -three strokes, then hold up each leg and shear down back of the leg. Tip! Press the magic button! Jab your thumb into the groin area of the sheep and it will automatically stretch out the corresponding leg in a rigid stance. - Makes life a lot easier!

Now lay the sheep on its side and proceed with strokes 9 to 13. (Making sure you shear all the way up to and just over the backbone line.) Note the position of feet in the diagram. This is important! If the sheep get free at this stage all hell breaks loose! Right leg between the sheep's two front legs, left leg supports the sheep's back. On the first sign of any attempt to struggle free, dip and bent your knees so as to hold the sheep down.

STEPS 4 & 5 (fig 5 & 6)
With the sheep in the position as shown in the diagram (Step 4) proceed with blows 14/15/16 to clean off the rear end. Remember the "magic buttons" - apply pressure approximately in the area shown (red arrow) to make the sheep hold its leg out straight. Shear should also move his/her right leg back a few inches to help turn the sheep. Next with sheep manoeuvred into the position shown proceed with blows 17/18/19 on the face.

STEPS 6 & 7 (fig 7 & 8)
With the sheep back into a sitting position, take a firm hold of the jaw stretching the neck back and complete blows 20/21. The first blow (20) especially on long woolled sheep you will need to "break out" of the fleece under the chin. Do this by "raising the shearing head up and away from the chin, this action will break the wool strands allowing you better access for the following blows. Blows 22/23 finish the cheek areas.

STEPS 8 & 9 (fig 9 & 10)
Blow 24 should clear up to the far ear. On very woolly folk you may need to continue on over the eye and in extreme case of wool cover clean the nose. Bend/roll the sheep head/neck over you knee to stretch the chest and lower neck areas. Blows 26/27 clean up the front leg as shown. Note position of the shearer's feet and knees!

STEPS 10 & 11 (fig 11 & 12)
With the sheep in a sitting position, your elbow on the neck holds the front leg and shear down as shown (Blows 28/29.) Having now completed most of the awkward areas you are poised to "fly." Sheep manoeuvred into position as shown (Do note position of the shearer's leg - VITAL!) Many a "yow" has up'td and scampered away at this point, leaving the shearer with a "Were he be too me dear." ("Yow" is Devonian name for a sheep! Starting from were you finished when you were on the belly blows now shear across the body, nice long flowing "blows" (no double cuts!). (30/31/32) Finishing from the tail all the way - a long blow right up to the neck, curling off at the ear. You will have cradled the head to achieve this action. (33) This little action will stretch you - but there is worse to come!

STEPS 12 & 13 (fig 13 & 14)
Shearer's left hand attached to the jaw bone or head, the position of which is curve round your leg with your knees bent, and right leg position just over the sheep's rear proceed with blows 34/35. Now (this sorts out the men from the boys!) with your fingers hanging on for dear life to the head (use the jaw bone for anchorage) raise the sheep upwards by yourself stepping slightly backwards and then proceed to carry out blows 36 to 40. With your body in an almost "S" shape position this stretches muscles you never thought you had!)

STEPS 14 & 15 (fig 15 & 16)
With the sheep in a sitting position as shown in the diagram take out blows 41/42. In step 15 it may help with many sheep to stretch the skin to complete blows 43 to 45

STEP 16 (fig 17) - you are almost there!
With the sheep in a position with its head but - not the shoulders through your legs (If you let the shoulders get past your leg you have just given the sheep the advantage, and most will take it and you with them!) proceed to complete the last three blows 46/47/and 48.

Release the sheep by opening your legs ……you have finished! …the first one!

NB. In the old days (when wool had some value!) one had an assistant, who at this point collected up the "entire" fleece. With the style of a "professional" they threw it up and over in the air so that it landed the right way up fully spread and ready to be rolled and tied. (Tied with the neckband - not some dirty bit of binder twine!) While this "artistic" act was being performed the shearer "oiled up" the handpiece, adjusted the tensioning of the blades if necessary and made ready for the next customer! ……………SHEARING IS FUN!

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